Sentry Page Protection
BEYOND THE BASICS
Before beginning this section, please be sure you have completed the Raw Basics Section.
If you have not, you can go to that section here.
If you have completed it, great! You can continue your learning here.
If you have not, you can go to that section here.
If you have completed it, great! You can continue your learning here.
Know your dog. Observe your dog while they eat. Become familiar with their eating habits. This will allow you to learn what you can safely feed to your dog or cat, whether they need to be crated, sent outside, away from others, etc. No matter how well you know their habits, always keep a watchful eye when they are eating.
Rabbit back and legs
The following covers just about everything over feeding, rotating, and helpful tips.
FEEDING
Proteins you can feed:
Chicken
Beef or Veal
Turkey
Pork
Lamb
Duck
Bison
Rabbit
Goat
Emu
Goose
Tripe
Llama
Venison
Elk
Muskrat
Beaver
Cavie
Quail
Pheasant
Eggs
Fish
Caribou
Antelope
Squirrel
Mice (cats, ferrets, and tiny dogs)
Rats
Any poultry can be fed as long as it isn't too small for your dog. Some small dogs may have trouble with large bird bones, such as turkey. Raw eggs are fine to feed as well, with or without shell. If feeding with shell, some may show up undigested in stool.
My experience: I have almost all of the above. My experience is my dogs loved every protein they have tried thus far. The only protein they have been unsure about is muskrat. After eating a couple meals of it, it's a normal protein for them. I think it may have been a little "gamier" than what they were used to.
FEEDING
Proteins you can feed:
Chicken
Beef or Veal
Turkey
Pork
Lamb
Duck
Bison
Rabbit
Goat
Emu
Goose
Tripe
Llama
Venison
Elk
Muskrat
Beaver
Cavie
Quail
Pheasant
Eggs
Fish
Caribou
Antelope
Squirrel
Mice (cats, ferrets, and tiny dogs)
Rats
Any poultry can be fed as long as it isn't too small for your dog. Some small dogs may have trouble with large bird bones, such as turkey. Raw eggs are fine to feed as well, with or without shell. If feeding with shell, some may show up undigested in stool.
My experience: I have almost all of the above. My experience is my dogs loved every protein they have tried thus far. The only protein they have been unsure about is muskrat. After eating a couple meals of it, it's a normal protein for them. I think it may have been a little "gamier" than what they were used to.
ORGANS
Organs should make up 10% of your dog or cat's diet. Liver is recommended to make up 5% of that. Other organs are spleen, pancreas, testes, kidneys, gizzards, and lungs.
Just like with bones, be sure that you have organs sized or prepared appropriately for your dog or cat.
My experience: My dogs love all organs, especially liver. When they ate goat testes the first time, my border collie worked on hers and ate it in smaller pieces. My Italian greyhound thought it was extra special since it was new and bit off large chunks too big for her. She later vomited goat testes... yuck. If I feed them to her, I have to cut them into small pieces. More reason and know your dog's quirks!
Organs should make up 10% of your dog or cat's diet. Liver is recommended to make up 5% of that. Other organs are spleen, pancreas, testes, kidneys, gizzards, and lungs.
Just like with bones, be sure that you have organs sized or prepared appropriately for your dog or cat.
My experience: My dogs love all organs, especially liver. When they ate goat testes the first time, my border collie worked on hers and ate it in smaller pieces. My Italian greyhound thought it was extra special since it was new and bit off large chunks too big for her. She later vomited goat testes... yuck. If I feed them to her, I have to cut them into small pieces. More reason and know your dog's quirks!
BONES
Raw bones comes down to knowing your dog and what is size appropriate for them. Most dogs do great with eating raw meaty chicken, turkey, lamb, pork, duck, and goat bones. Some dogs or cats may stuggle gnawing lamb bones but do great with goat bones. Some dogs will eat ribs from young beef, lamb, etc and others will only eat the meat off of them and leave the bones. Learn what your dog or cat does, what they eat easily, and what they struggle with.
My experience: Some bones I thought my dogs wouldn't get through easily they do and some I thought would be easy are not. For example, my border collie loves eating rabbit heads (may sound gruesome to us humans, but they are appropriate for our pet carnivores) and she can crunch through one in about 30 seconds. If I offer her a part of rabbit carcass, that's what she first goes for. However, if I feed her raw meaty lamb ribs, she shears off the meat and leaves the bones. With lamb, goat, and pork she also will leave patellas (knee caps) and sometimes parts of hips and knee joints. Know your dog. My border collie is my fabulous raw eater that I can trust with any size raw meaty bone. My Italian greyhound I have to take away raw meaty bones that get small enough to gulp. Can you guess who finishes those? My border collie.
Raw bones comes down to knowing your dog and what is size appropriate for them. Most dogs do great with eating raw meaty chicken, turkey, lamb, pork, duck, and goat bones. Some dogs or cats may stuggle gnawing lamb bones but do great with goat bones. Some dogs will eat ribs from young beef, lamb, etc and others will only eat the meat off of them and leave the bones. Learn what your dog or cat does, what they eat easily, and what they struggle with.
My experience: Some bones I thought my dogs wouldn't get through easily they do and some I thought would be easy are not. For example, my border collie loves eating rabbit heads (may sound gruesome to us humans, but they are appropriate for our pet carnivores) and she can crunch through one in about 30 seconds. If I offer her a part of rabbit carcass, that's what she first goes for. However, if I feed her raw meaty lamb ribs, she shears off the meat and leaves the bones. With lamb, goat, and pork she also will leave patellas (knee caps) and sometimes parts of hips and knee joints. Know your dog. My border collie is my fabulous raw eater that I can trust with any size raw meaty bone. My Italian greyhound I have to take away raw meaty bones that get small enough to gulp. Can you guess who finishes those? My border collie.
Deer meat, deer liver, duck neck, chicken egg... it's okay to mix things up once your dog or cat's system is doing well on their first few proteins. Duck and lamb are not advised until a few solid months on other proteins with good stool and minimal gas.
|
INTRODUCING NEW PROTEINS AND ORGANS
If chicken or turkey was your first protein, try a red meat next. Red meats naturally have more nutrients. Rotate between those two and if your dog or cat does well, then start rotating in a third the next month.
You may have to mix a little of the old protein with the new protein. That is ok. They just got used to something new to them and suddenly a completely different protein is in front of them.
You do not have to stick to the first 3 or 4 proteins introduced. Feel free to branch out and try others as well. I usually have about 8 different proteins in my freezer at a time... but my dogs have eaten close to 20 different proteins to date.
Sometimes dogs will reject certain organs. You can try serving organs in different ways, such as whole, pureed, cut, etc.
Lamb and duck are fatty proteins. If you have an adult dog who has been on processed food prior, it is not advised to feed these until they have had a few solid months on other (average and lean fat) proteins with normal stool and minimal gas. If fed too soon, they can cause some GI upset being so rich in fat and it may cause your pet to reject them. However, once your pet is ready, fatty proteins are fabulous to feed. Dogs and cats actually tend to prefer them. These proteins allow for beautiful, shiny coats, even in the dry winter time.
My experience: My dogs have enjoyed everything that has been offered to them - meat and organ. They hesitated for muskrat, checked it out a bit, and then decided to eat it. It may have been a bit gamier than what they were used to at the time.
If chicken or turkey was your first protein, try a red meat next. Red meats naturally have more nutrients. Rotate between those two and if your dog or cat does well, then start rotating in a third the next month.
You may have to mix a little of the old protein with the new protein. That is ok. They just got used to something new to them and suddenly a completely different protein is in front of them.
You do not have to stick to the first 3 or 4 proteins introduced. Feel free to branch out and try others as well. I usually have about 8 different proteins in my freezer at a time... but my dogs have eaten close to 20 different proteins to date.
Sometimes dogs will reject certain organs. You can try serving organs in different ways, such as whole, pureed, cut, etc.
Lamb and duck are fatty proteins. If you have an adult dog who has been on processed food prior, it is not advised to feed these until they have had a few solid months on other (average and lean fat) proteins with normal stool and minimal gas. If fed too soon, they can cause some GI upset being so rich in fat and it may cause your pet to reject them. However, once your pet is ready, fatty proteins are fabulous to feed. Dogs and cats actually tend to prefer them. These proteins allow for beautiful, shiny coats, even in the dry winter time.
My experience: My dogs have enjoyed everything that has been offered to them - meat and organ. They hesitated for muskrat, checked it out a bit, and then decided to eat it. It may have been a bit gamier than what they were used to at the time.
FREEZER BURNT MEAT
Okay to feed as long as it is not spoiled. It will have less of a smell, so may be rejected by your dog or cat.
My experience: My dogs sometimes reject this probably due to lack of smell.
Okay to feed as long as it is not spoiled. It will have less of a smell, so may be rejected by your dog or cat.
My experience: My dogs sometimes reject this probably due to lack of smell.
FROZEN OR PARTIALLY FROZEN MEAT
This is okay to feed. Many raw feeds feed partially frozen meals as it prolongs eating time and forces gulpers to work at their meal. Hoever, avoid feeding thick pieces of meat or bone that is completey frozen.
My experience is my dogs tend to reject completely frozen raw meaty bones. I think it's too hard for them. They are perfectly fine with partially frozen.
This is okay to feed. Many raw feeds feed partially frozen meals as it prolongs eating time and forces gulpers to work at their meal. Hoever, avoid feeding thick pieces of meat or bone that is completey frozen.
My experience is my dogs tend to reject completely frozen raw meaty bones. I think it's too hard for them. They are perfectly fine with partially frozen.
GROUND RAW FOOD
Whole ground raw food (as in the whole carcass is ground or includes proper proportions of muscle, organ, and bone) is a balanced prey model raw diet and good to feed. Some raw feeders choose to feed ground only. That choice is yours, however I advise to include raw meaty bones at least every now and then for dental hygiene benefits as well as mental stimulation of chewing. Some dogs or cats may not be able to eat raw meaty bones from pulled teeth or jaw problems, if this is the case, you will have to feed ground. Know the contents of the ground food. Be sure your ground food contains the correct proportions of meat, bone, and organ. The bowl pictured is whole ground trout. Each meat will look slightly different coloration depending on what it is.
My experience: My Italian greyhound mostly eats ground prey model raw food as she is missing two molars. I will let her gnaw at raw meaty bones, but it is hard for her to get a decent amount of food in her belly over gnawing for a long period of time. I feed raw meaty bones outside. This usually works out well most days Mar through Dec. I feed more ground in Jan, when temps in my area are subzero. If we do have warmer temps during the winter, I'm sure to get out some raw meaty bones.
Whole ground raw food (as in the whole carcass is ground or includes proper proportions of muscle, organ, and bone) is a balanced prey model raw diet and good to feed. Some raw feeders choose to feed ground only. That choice is yours, however I advise to include raw meaty bones at least every now and then for dental hygiene benefits as well as mental stimulation of chewing. Some dogs or cats may not be able to eat raw meaty bones from pulled teeth or jaw problems, if this is the case, you will have to feed ground. Know the contents of the ground food. Be sure your ground food contains the correct proportions of meat, bone, and organ. The bowl pictured is whole ground trout. Each meat will look slightly different coloration depending on what it is.
My experience: My Italian greyhound mostly eats ground prey model raw food as she is missing two molars. I will let her gnaw at raw meaty bones, but it is hard for her to get a decent amount of food in her belly over gnawing for a long period of time. I feed raw meaty bones outside. This usually works out well most days Mar through Dec. I feed more ground in Jan, when temps in my area are subzero. If we do have warmer temps during the winter, I'm sure to get out some raw meaty bones.
RAW GREEN TRIPE
Tripe is very beneficial as it contains high amounts of probiotics. This is a natural source of probiotics and enzymes for dogs and cats. Some raw feeders add a teaspoon to tablespoon per meal and some feed an entire meal of tripe.
If you feed an entire meal of tripe, don't feed several in a row. A couple meals in a row is ok, but if you feed more than that, they may have loose stool from the high amounts of probiotics and enzymes.
My experience: It may smell like a barnyard on a hot day, but my dogs L-O-V-E tripe and I love the benefits! I usually feed tripe as a meal. I have fed ground tripe and tripe strips. Know your dog. If they are a gulper, ground tripe may be a better option.
Additional Info: Blog on Tripe Here
Tripe is very beneficial as it contains high amounts of probiotics. This is a natural source of probiotics and enzymes for dogs and cats. Some raw feeders add a teaspoon to tablespoon per meal and some feed an entire meal of tripe.
If you feed an entire meal of tripe, don't feed several in a row. A couple meals in a row is ok, but if you feed more than that, they may have loose stool from the high amounts of probiotics and enzymes.
My experience: It may smell like a barnyard on a hot day, but my dogs L-O-V-E tripe and I love the benefits! I usually feed tripe as a meal. I have fed ground tripe and tripe strips. Know your dog. If they are a gulper, ground tripe may be a better option.
Additional Info: Blog on Tripe Here
FISH
Fish can be fed whole or ground. Some raw feeders remove fins, if they are sharp. For the highest amount of omega 3s, feed fatty ocean fish. Tilapia and catfish contain high omega 6, so usually are not fed. Trout is the highest freshwater fish in omega 3s. Ocean fish should not be fed on a regular basis due to contamination from pollutants in the water.
Fish can swallow hooks and lures. There is a risk that they can contain a hook or lure unless properly gutted.
Farmed fish are usually fed inappropriate diets and are exposed to more pollution than wild caught. It's not recommended to feed farmed fish.
My experience: I have fed both ground whole fish and whole fish. My dogs love both. There is a hook risk and I watch my dogs closely when eating whole fish.
VIDEO: Shiba Inu, Ryu, eating his first herring
Fish can be fed whole or ground. Some raw feeders remove fins, if they are sharp. For the highest amount of omega 3s, feed fatty ocean fish. Tilapia and catfish contain high omega 6, so usually are not fed. Trout is the highest freshwater fish in omega 3s. Ocean fish should not be fed on a regular basis due to contamination from pollutants in the water.
Fish can swallow hooks and lures. There is a risk that they can contain a hook or lure unless properly gutted.
Farmed fish are usually fed inappropriate diets and are exposed to more pollution than wild caught. It's not recommended to feed farmed fish.
My experience: I have fed both ground whole fish and whole fish. My dogs love both. There is a hook risk and I watch my dogs closely when eating whole fish.
VIDEO: Shiba Inu, Ryu, eating his first herring
|
Special Note On Fish:
Salmon, trout, lamprey, sculpin, redside shiner, shad, sturgeon, candlefish and the large-scale sucker who live in coastal streams and rivers in the Pacific NW can contain a parasite that causes salmon poisoning and is fatal if not treated promptly (vomiting, diarhhea, fever, weakness). Solution: Purchase from a trusted source OR freezing for 2 weeks eliminates this risk. |
|
WHOLE PREY
Whole prey is ok to feed. This means it has not been butchered in any way. It may be plucked or skinned, or have fur and feathers intact. If feeding whole prey, check for ticks. If there are any ticks, remove them as they can spread disease.
Just like with feeding raw meaty bones, know your dog.
My experience: My dogs have eaten small whole prey meals, such as rabbit. They have eaten them with fur and skinned. One dog ripped out and throws the fur everywhere the other eats it fine. Fur is a form of fiber, so if they've never had it before or eat a lot of it, they may have some more frequent bowel movements.
Whole prey is ok to feed. This means it has not been butchered in any way. It may be plucked or skinned, or have fur and feathers intact. If feeding whole prey, check for ticks. If there are any ticks, remove them as they can spread disease.
Just like with feeding raw meaty bones, know your dog.
My experience: My dogs have eaten small whole prey meals, such as rabbit. They have eaten them with fur and skinned. One dog ripped out and throws the fur everywhere the other eats it fine. Fur is a form of fiber, so if they've never had it before or eat a lot of it, they may have some more frequent bowel movements.
|
|
|
|
EYES, BRAINS, AND SPINAL CORDS
Some people are concerned with feeding these due to prion diseases. They are very rare, but are transmissable upon comsuming these parts of an affected animal. If affected tissue comes in contact with other tissue, that tissue is infected as well.
Resistant animals to these diseases are rabbits, horses, and canids. Prion diseases have never been found in pork.
The USDA has taken precautions so that meat infected with a prion disease does not end up in the human food supply, so if your meat is fit for human consumption, you should not have to worry. If feeding venison, you can check with your local wildlife officials to see if there have been any problems.
Prion diseases are very rare, but are a risk, the main animals that carry prion disease are cattle and deer, other hooved animals can as well.
My experience: I feed rabbit heads (no risk) and duck heads. I also feed backs of lamb, goat, deer, duck, chicken, etc which contain spinal cords. I have fed necks of lamb, goat, pork (no risk), poultry (no risk) from quality sources - local farms. If you know your food comes from a good source or if it is for human consumption, there is very, very little chance there would be a risk of prion disease. As always, use common sense, if something doesn't look or smell right, don't feed it.
Some people are concerned with feeding these due to prion diseases. They are very rare, but are transmissable upon comsuming these parts of an affected animal. If affected tissue comes in contact with other tissue, that tissue is infected as well.
Resistant animals to these diseases are rabbits, horses, and canids. Prion diseases have never been found in pork.
The USDA has taken precautions so that meat infected with a prion disease does not end up in the human food supply, so if your meat is fit for human consumption, you should not have to worry. If feeding venison, you can check with your local wildlife officials to see if there have been any problems.
Prion diseases are very rare, but are a risk, the main animals that carry prion disease are cattle and deer, other hooved animals can as well.
My experience: I feed rabbit heads (no risk) and duck heads. I also feed backs of lamb, goat, deer, duck, chicken, etc which contain spinal cords. I have fed necks of lamb, goat, pork (no risk), poultry (no risk) from quality sources - local farms. If you know your food comes from a good source or if it is for human consumption, there is very, very little chance there would be a risk of prion disease. As always, use common sense, if something doesn't look or smell right, don't feed it.
|
|
ROADKILL
Check local laws and if you do pick it up, it is recommended to freeze for one month. Use common sense. If they have been laying there for a while, do not consider feeding it. If it smells and is starting to bloat, most definitely do not feed. If it has insects feeding on it, most definitely do not feed.
My experience: I have a few hunters that I collect scraps from. Sometimes they are "in the know" about fresh hit roadkill. They will call me if they think it is still fresh enough to feed. If it's winter time, the roadkill can sit out for a while. If it's summer, not a great chance to use for food, unless you pick it up right away. There was a buck once caught in a chain link fence. It was taken out by a police officer as it was dangerous for people to try and free and his side was sliced open from the fence. He was suitable to feed for my dogs as he was collected right after.
Check local laws and if you do pick it up, it is recommended to freeze for one month. Use common sense. If they have been laying there for a while, do not consider feeding it. If it smells and is starting to bloat, most definitely do not feed. If it has insects feeding on it, most definitely do not feed.
My experience: I have a few hunters that I collect scraps from. Sometimes they are "in the know" about fresh hit roadkill. They will call me if they think it is still fresh enough to feed. If it's winter time, the roadkill can sit out for a while. If it's summer, not a great chance to use for food, unless you pick it up right away. There was a buck once caught in a chain link fence. It was taken out by a police officer as it was dangerous for people to try and free and his side was sliced open from the fence. He was suitable to feed for my dogs as he was collected right after.
Part of a deer carcass, ribs and shoulder
|
Beautiful lung, from a healthy deer
|
Onys says, "when given a deer leg, one must happily sprint around the yard with it for 10min before gnawing."
|
Sometimes collecting wild game takes a little extra work on your part, but the offset of cost is worth it.
|
WILD GAME
Wild game can certainly be fed. It can help bring down your raw food cost, with the possibility of needing a little elbow grease to break down. Inspect wild game for ticks and buckshots. Sometimes knowing a hunter or being a hunter yourself, you can have access to feeding deer, pheasant, etc.
If an animal was infested with ticks, avoid feeding as this animal was probably ill. It is recommended to freeze for 2 weeks. Use common sense. If it looks abnormal or smells abnormal, don't feed.
Special consideration for squirrels, wild rabbits, wild mice, wild rats which can carry tapeworm. Inspect them, look at their organs. If anything looks abnormal, discard. Otherwise, it is recommended to freeze for one month before feeding.
My experience: I collect scraps from hunters. These are pieces of their wild game that would typically be thrown away and not used for human consumption. They tend to be things like deer legs, deer necks, deer ribs, deer backs, deer organs (heart, lung, liver), goose head and necks, duck head and necks, etc. You can reach out to hunters to take their scraps off their hands. Most are happy that their entire deer gets used. I don't collect anything gastro-intestinal, it is very difficult for hunters to clean and not very pretty. Each hunter gives me their scraps in a totally different way. For example, one gives me his entire deer carcass in a bag after he takes all of his trimmings off of it. Another gives me all organs and tongues and it comes in a clean and neat little package. If you are given an animal carcass as big as a deer, you most likely will need to break it down into smaller pieces for ease of fitting in your freezer. I use a sawzall for this. I wear cut proof rubberized gloves for safety (even though a sawzall can probably go through, but having some safety barrier is better than nothing) and safety glasses in case bone fragments fly off while sawing. I will usually cut the neck into 2 pieces, then cut each side of the rib cage off, next the back into 2 or 3 chunks, and then I just have legs left. I tend to not save the pelvis as it tends to be bare, without any meat. Please use caution if breaking down carcasses.
I don't collect fish from local fisherman as if they are fishing from a lake that fish tend to be caught "for fun" and thrown back in, they have the potential of having hooks inside. That isn't a risk I am willing to take with my dogs and I don't want to take the time to gut fish for them, so all the fish they eat are already gutted from my suppliers.
Wild game can certainly be fed. It can help bring down your raw food cost, with the possibility of needing a little elbow grease to break down. Inspect wild game for ticks and buckshots. Sometimes knowing a hunter or being a hunter yourself, you can have access to feeding deer, pheasant, etc.
If an animal was infested with ticks, avoid feeding as this animal was probably ill. It is recommended to freeze for 2 weeks. Use common sense. If it looks abnormal or smells abnormal, don't feed.
Special consideration for squirrels, wild rabbits, wild mice, wild rats which can carry tapeworm. Inspect them, look at their organs. If anything looks abnormal, discard. Otherwise, it is recommended to freeze for one month before feeding.
My experience: I collect scraps from hunters. These are pieces of their wild game that would typically be thrown away and not used for human consumption. They tend to be things like deer legs, deer necks, deer ribs, deer backs, deer organs (heart, lung, liver), goose head and necks, duck head and necks, etc. You can reach out to hunters to take their scraps off their hands. Most are happy that their entire deer gets used. I don't collect anything gastro-intestinal, it is very difficult for hunters to clean and not very pretty. Each hunter gives me their scraps in a totally different way. For example, one gives me his entire deer carcass in a bag after he takes all of his trimmings off of it. Another gives me all organs and tongues and it comes in a clean and neat little package. If you are given an animal carcass as big as a deer, you most likely will need to break it down into smaller pieces for ease of fitting in your freezer. I use a sawzall for this. I wear cut proof rubberized gloves for safety (even though a sawzall can probably go through, but having some safety barrier is better than nothing) and safety glasses in case bone fragments fly off while sawing. I will usually cut the neck into 2 pieces, then cut each side of the rib cage off, next the back into 2 or 3 chunks, and then I just have legs left. I tend to not save the pelvis as it tends to be bare, without any meat. Please use caution if breaking down carcasses.
I don't collect fish from local fisherman as if they are fishing from a lake that fish tend to be caught "for fun" and thrown back in, they have the potential of having hooks inside. That isn't a risk I am willing to take with my dogs and I don't want to take the time to gut fish for them, so all the fish they eat are already gutted from my suppliers.
"What do you mean I need a bath?"
Both wild game and roadkill may be a little messier than other feeding options. I tend to feed partially frozen to help with that.
|
You may never be given the opportunity for the following, but just in case:
FARM ANIMALS
If a farm animal was ill, given any medications or hormones, or euthanized chemically, it should not be fed. Do not feed animals who have died unexpectedly who were ill or had an unknown cause. Stillborn animals are usually ok to feed. You will most likely need to break down stillborn animals for storage. However, you could feed fresh, as long as the animal was healthy.
CARNIVORES
It is not natural for a carnivore to eat another carnivore, so most raw feeders avoid it. Bears can carry a form of trichinosis that is very resistant to cold.
FARM ANIMALS
If a farm animal was ill, given any medications or hormones, or euthanized chemically, it should not be fed. Do not feed animals who have died unexpectedly who were ill or had an unknown cause. Stillborn animals are usually ok to feed. You will most likely need to break down stillborn animals for storage. However, you could feed fresh, as long as the animal was healthy.
CARNIVORES
It is not natural for a carnivore to eat another carnivore, so most raw feeders avoid it. Bears can carry a form of trichinosis that is very resistant to cold.
SHELLFISH
Most raw feeders do not feed whole/parts of shellfish. Some dogs can be allergic to shellfish, just like people. Just like with bone, be sure that you do NOT feed cooked shells. Crabs many times go through a pre-cook process. If you offer, and your dog or cat will eat it, shell counts toward bone. A lot of joint supplements contain shellfish. These are okay to give as long as you don't notice any adverse reactions. If you're unsure, start very small.
WILD BOAR/HOGS
It is not recommended to feed wild pork as they can carry a form of trichinosis that is very resistant to cold.
Tips that may help you with raw feeding:
Journal
Keeping a journal can help when trying new meats, organs, sections of raw meaty bones.
Storage Preparation
Cutting into portion sizes for your dog or cat, putting in a zip lock bag, and labeling before storing can help.
Sourcing
Talk to farmers, butchers, hunters, co-ops. Check out ethnic markets. Talk to friends and neighbors about freezer burnt meat that they plan to toss. Check grocery stores for sales on expiring meat. If it's expiring soon, see if you can get a higher discount. There are also sources like Hare Today Gone Tomorrow and My Pet Carnivore that supply raw meaty bones, whole prey, and ground varieties.
Most raw feeders do not feed whole/parts of shellfish. Some dogs can be allergic to shellfish, just like people. Just like with bone, be sure that you do NOT feed cooked shells. Crabs many times go through a pre-cook process. If you offer, and your dog or cat will eat it, shell counts toward bone. A lot of joint supplements contain shellfish. These are okay to give as long as you don't notice any adverse reactions. If you're unsure, start very small.
WILD BOAR/HOGS
It is not recommended to feed wild pork as they can carry a form of trichinosis that is very resistant to cold.
Tips that may help you with raw feeding:
Journal
Keeping a journal can help when trying new meats, organs, sections of raw meaty bones.
Storage Preparation
Cutting into portion sizes for your dog or cat, putting in a zip lock bag, and labeling before storing can help.
Sourcing
Talk to farmers, butchers, hunters, co-ops. Check out ethnic markets. Talk to friends and neighbors about freezer burnt meat that they plan to toss. Check grocery stores for sales on expiring meat. If it's expiring soon, see if you can get a higher discount. There are also sources like Hare Today Gone Tomorrow and My Pet Carnivore that supply raw meaty bones, whole prey, and ground varieties.
© Roaring For Raw, nothing in this membership area may be reproduced in any form.