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Treats & Chews
This section talks about foods appropriate for dogs and cats to use as treats and chews.
TREATS
If you would like to give your dog or cat treats, be sure that the treats also fit into a species appropriate, prey model style.
Most treats found at the pet supply store will not.
The best treats are freeze dried or dehydrated treats, single protein ingrediets.
Without changing, you won't be getting the full benefit from your dog's new diet or if you are switching to a prey model raw diet to help a health issue, you most likely will not get full resolution.
Some Examples...
(All of these are appropriate for both dogs and cats)
If you would like to give your dog or cat treats, be sure that the treats also fit into a species appropriate, prey model style.
Most treats found at the pet supply store will not.
The best treats are freeze dried or dehydrated treats, single protein ingrediets.
Without changing, you won't be getting the full benefit from your dog's new diet or if you are switching to a prey model raw diet to help a health issue, you most likely will not get full resolution.
Some Examples...
(All of these are appropriate for both dogs and cats)
Vital Essentials Freeze Dried Treats (Nibs)
(Hard, crunchy... come in a variety of protein: duck, rabbit, chicken, turkey, beef, tripe, salmon, etc)
(Hard, crunchy... come in a variety of protein: duck, rabbit, chicken, turkey, beef, tripe, salmon, etc)
Northwest Naturals Freeze Dried Treats
(Soft and crumbly/breakable...come in a variety of proteins: bison, beef, lamb, chicken)
(Soft and crumbly/breakable...come in a variety of proteins: bison, beef, lamb, chicken)
Primal Treats (Nibs)
(Soft and chewy... come in a variety of proteins: chicken, pork, turkey, beef)
(Soft and chewy... come in a variety of proteins: chicken, pork, turkey, beef)
Stewart Pro-Treat Freeze Dried Treats
(Hard, semi-breakable... come in beef, chicken, pork, and duck)
(Hard, semi-breakable... come in beef, chicken, pork, and duck)
Cycle Dog Freeze Dried Treats
(come in lamb, chicken, beef)
(come in lamb, chicken, beef)
Whole Life Originals Freeze Dried Treats
(come in chicken, beef, turkey, cod, salmon)
(come in chicken, beef, turkey, cod, salmon)
Barkworthies Dehydrated Treats
(have a variety such as lamb lung, kangaroo steak, salmon skin, etc)
(have a variety such as lamb lung, kangaroo steak, salmon skin, etc)
My Pet Carnivore Dehydrated Treats
(variety of proteins: duck hearts, chicken hearts, beef trachea, ostrich trachea, etc)
(variety of proteins: duck hearts, chicken hearts, beef trachea, ostrich trachea, etc)
DIY Treats
You can dehydrate your own treats. It's easiest with a dehydrator (link to my model), however, you can use your oven at it's lowest temperature setting with treats set on a wire rack, otherwise they become stuck to trays.
I have collected deer organs such as liver, lungs, and heart. I also am sometimes given a beef heart by people belonging to co-ops that do not want it for themselves, but know that I feed raw. I also sometimes get a bulk package of organs, such as goat testicles, duck hearts, etc.
•With large organs, you want to cut down to the thinnest possible strips that you are able to slice. With lung treats, you can do thinker slices, as much of the organ contains air. With small organs like duck or chicken hearts, you can dehydrate as-is. Goat testicles are the smallest organs that I slice. With organ slicing, I find it easier to do if the organ is partially frozen, otherwise it is kind of like cutting through thick jello.
•Place these strips on your dehydrator trays so that they are not touching one another.
•(Optional) I place my dehydrator in the garage so that my house does not smell like whatever I am dehydrating.
•Turn your dehydrator on. It will probably run for a couple hours, at least. Once treats start drying up, monitor it more frequently. When the treats are crisp and lacking moisture, they are done. (But believe me, dogs don't care if they are in the dehydrator too long!)
•Super simple and most of the time the foods I am dehydrating for my dogs came to me for free, so it helps bring down treat costs for your pet if you are collecting these organs that people typically do not want.
You can dehydrate your own treats. It's easiest with a dehydrator (link to my model), however, you can use your oven at it's lowest temperature setting with treats set on a wire rack, otherwise they become stuck to trays.
I have collected deer organs such as liver, lungs, and heart. I also am sometimes given a beef heart by people belonging to co-ops that do not want it for themselves, but know that I feed raw. I also sometimes get a bulk package of organs, such as goat testicles, duck hearts, etc.
•With large organs, you want to cut down to the thinnest possible strips that you are able to slice. With lung treats, you can do thinker slices, as much of the organ contains air. With small organs like duck or chicken hearts, you can dehydrate as-is. Goat testicles are the smallest organs that I slice. With organ slicing, I find it easier to do if the organ is partially frozen, otherwise it is kind of like cutting through thick jello.
•Place these strips on your dehydrator trays so that they are not touching one another.
•(Optional) I place my dehydrator in the garage so that my house does not smell like whatever I am dehydrating.
•Turn your dehydrator on. It will probably run for a couple hours, at least. Once treats start drying up, monitor it more frequently. When the treats are crisp and lacking moisture, they are done. (But believe me, dogs don't care if they are in the dehydrator too long!)
•Super simple and most of the time the foods I am dehydrating for my dogs came to me for free, so it helps bring down treat costs for your pet if you are collecting these organs that people typically do not want.
HEALTHY CHEWS
Same thing goes... you want a single ingredient chew and if they are eating it, it needs to be digestible. As always, monitor your dog so that you can ensure their safety.
Some Examples:
Same thing goes... you want a single ingredient chew and if they are eating it, it needs to be digestible. As always, monitor your dog so that you can ensure their safety.
Some Examples:
Elk Antlers
These are great long lasting chews. I use large split antlers, as pictured above, and they tend to last me 1-2 months before all the marrow is gone. At that point they are thrown away. Opt for antlers that are "split" (sawed in half) for easy access to the marrow inside or you can do a completely enclosed antler for more of a challenge. The marrow of the antler is very nutrient dense, containing protein, many minerals, glucosamine, hyaluronic acid, collagen, iron, zinc, copper, and more. Before I brought my German shepherd puppy home, I stocked up on these and put one in every room of my house. If he was in a gnawing mood from teething, he grabbed an antler. It worked just as I had planned!
I use Jim Hodge's antlers and also a WI company called CST Antlers who are sometimes at local pet events - both companies provide every style and size antler. These antlers are naturally shed and collected.
These are great long lasting chews. I use large split antlers, as pictured above, and they tend to last me 1-2 months before all the marrow is gone. At that point they are thrown away. Opt for antlers that are "split" (sawed in half) for easy access to the marrow inside or you can do a completely enclosed antler for more of a challenge. The marrow of the antler is very nutrient dense, containing protein, many minerals, glucosamine, hyaluronic acid, collagen, iron, zinc, copper, and more. Before I brought my German shepherd puppy home, I stocked up on these and put one in every room of my house. If he was in a gnawing mood from teething, he grabbed an antler. It worked just as I had planned!
I use Jim Hodge's antlers and also a WI company called CST Antlers who are sometimes at local pet events - both companies provide every style and size antler. These antlers are naturally shed and collected.
Tracheas
Beef tracheas are most commonly found, but there are also bison tracheas, lamb tracheas, ostrich tracheas, etc. Of those, the easiest trachea to get through is an ostrich trachea but they are hard to find, next up is a lamb trachea, beef and bison are the most difficult. After my dogs are given a trachea, they will typically sit and gnaw until their trachea is entirely gone. With foot long beef trachea, this tends to be about 20min in my German shepherd and 30-40min for my border collie. Ostrich tracheas are done within minutes, but they are great for dogs like my Italian greyhound who is missing a couple molars as they are easy. She takes about 10min with them. These are a good source of nutrients to help joint health, such as glucosamine and chondroitin. Beef trachea is around 5% glucosamine. After a little more math, we can see that just one ounce piece of trachea could hold over 1400mg of glucosamine.
(Raw tracheas of course can be fed as well, but you probably don't want this as a "chew" laying around your house. You can feed raw tracheas outside. Dogs tend to get through raw tracheas fast.)
Beef tracheas are most commonly found, but there are also bison tracheas, lamb tracheas, ostrich tracheas, etc. Of those, the easiest trachea to get through is an ostrich trachea but they are hard to find, next up is a lamb trachea, beef and bison are the most difficult. After my dogs are given a trachea, they will typically sit and gnaw until their trachea is entirely gone. With foot long beef trachea, this tends to be about 20min in my German shepherd and 30-40min for my border collie. Ostrich tracheas are done within minutes, but they are great for dogs like my Italian greyhound who is missing a couple molars as they are easy. She takes about 10min with them. These are a good source of nutrients to help joint health, such as glucosamine and chondroitin. Beef trachea is around 5% glucosamine. After a little more math, we can see that just one ounce piece of trachea could hold over 1400mg of glucosamine.
(Raw tracheas of course can be fed as well, but you probably don't want this as a "chew" laying around your house. You can feed raw tracheas outside. Dogs tend to get through raw tracheas fast.)
Water Buffalo Horns
Water buffalo horns are very hard chews and typically last a while. Mine last 4ish months. If you have an aggressive gnawer, it may not be the case. These are loved by both my border collie and German shepherd. I have heard a few stories of people noticing horns splintering. I have had several now and have never seen that. Keep an eye on your dog to watch for things like that. There are some that come with the point at the end of the horn, I just don't trust that around the house, with them gnawing it or someone stepping on it!
I use BUBA water buffalo horns.
Water buffalo horns are very hard chews and typically last a while. Mine last 4ish months. If you have an aggressive gnawer, it may not be the case. These are loved by both my border collie and German shepherd. I have heard a few stories of people noticing horns splintering. I have had several now and have never seen that. Keep an eye on your dog to watch for things like that. There are some that come with the point at the end of the horn, I just don't trust that around the house, with them gnawing it or someone stepping on it!
I use BUBA water buffalo horns.
Dehydrated Ears
Dehydrated ears are most commonly found as pig ears (be careful with sourcing and any bleaching and/or dyes-you want the whole natural ear if possible whether dehydrated or raw). Pictured are rabbit ears, sometimes you can find cow ears and rabbit ears too. These don't take very long to get through. For my dogs, rabbit ears take less than a minute and the larger animal ears from cow or pig take maybe 5min. Some people feed rabbit feet. I have never tried feeding rabbit feet, unless they are attached to a whole prey rabbit or large chuck of rabbit, as they are small and can be gulped easily. Rabbit feet also contain bones and I never feed bones that are not in their natural raw form, as they can become brittle. They may be a fun chew, in their raw form, for a very teeny tiny dog.
Dehydrated ears are most commonly found as pig ears (be careful with sourcing and any bleaching and/or dyes-you want the whole natural ear if possible whether dehydrated or raw). Pictured are rabbit ears, sometimes you can find cow ears and rabbit ears too. These don't take very long to get through. For my dogs, rabbit ears take less than a minute and the larger animal ears from cow or pig take maybe 5min. Some people feed rabbit feet. I have never tried feeding rabbit feet, unless they are attached to a whole prey rabbit or large chuck of rabbit, as they are small and can be gulped easily. Rabbit feet also contain bones and I never feed bones that are not in their natural raw form, as they can become brittle. They may be a fun chew, in their raw form, for a very teeny tiny dog.
Dehydrated protein sources
Pictured are dehydrated tripe "sticks," commonly found are also rabbit "sticks," and fish skin "sticks."
Pictured are dehydrated tripe "sticks," commonly found are also rabbit "sticks," and fish skin "sticks."
Onyx (GSD) has a split antler and Lolo (BC) has a water buffalo horn.
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AVOID, AVOID, AVOID
No jerky that is made in China
As with everything, check sourcing. Avoid treats, even "natural" single ingredient treats made in China. Chinese manufactured treats have killed tens of thousands of dogs over the past several years, causing things like acute kidney or liver failure and vomiting/diarhea, and vets still are unsure why. The treats that have caused deaths are still available at many big name pet stores. There must be an unlisted ingredient or something used in processing that is toxic to dogs.
As with everything, check sourcing. Avoid treats, even "natural" single ingredient treats made in China. Chinese manufactured treats have killed tens of thousands of dogs over the past several years, causing things like acute kidney or liver failure and vomiting/diarhea, and vets still are unsure why. The treats that have caused deaths are still available at many big name pet stores. There must be an unlisted ingredient or something used in processing that is toxic to dogs.
No dehydrated fruits or vegetables
With prey model raw, we are avoiding plant matter and this is the same with treats too. Avoid things like sweet potato chews and freeze dried treats that contain fruits, vegetables, and grain. Sweet potato treats have caused blockages in several of my patients after the dog broke off a big chunk and swallowed. They have also caused pancreatitis in several patients as the pancreas must produce a high amount of the digestive enzyme, amylase, in order to digest it. It basically overworks the pancreas and subsequently causes problems such as inflammation.
With prey model raw, we are avoiding plant matter and this is the same with treats too. Avoid things like sweet potato chews and freeze dried treats that contain fruits, vegetables, and grain. Sweet potato treats have caused blockages in several of my patients after the dog broke off a big chunk and swallowed. They have also caused pancreatitis in several patients as the pancreas must produce a high amount of the digestive enzyme, amylase, in order to digest it. It basically overworks the pancreas and subsequently causes problems such as inflammation.
No rawhides, smoked bones, dehydrated bones
Rawhides can cause blockages. Rawhides are actually a byproduct of the leather industry. “Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top grain is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner portion, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” TheBark.com The inner portion of the hide is separated (top layer goes to human leather products), it is next bleached and chemically preserved, then it is dyed, and finally pressed or formed into shapes. If you'd like the nitty gritty on rawhides, read more here.
Smoked and dehydrated bones can splinter, which can cause blockages and even be fatal, since they go through a cooking process.
Rawhides can cause blockages. Rawhides are actually a byproduct of the leather industry. “Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top grain is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner portion, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” TheBark.com The inner portion of the hide is separated (top layer goes to human leather products), it is next bleached and chemically preserved, then it is dyed, and finally pressed or formed into shapes. If you'd like the nitty gritty on rawhides, read more here.
Smoked and dehydrated bones can splinter, which can cause blockages and even be fatal, since they go through a cooking process.
No biscuit, bakery cookies, or pupaccinos
No "biscuit" or "cookie" type bones, simply not species appropriate. No puppacinos, no ice cream, all sugar and dairy, again not species appropriate. I hear pupaccinos mentioned a few times a week and cringe. Dogs and cats can also get very fat with these very fast, not to mention the health adversities that come along with that.
No "biscuit" or "cookie" type bones, simply not species appropriate. No puppacinos, no ice cream, all sugar and dairy, again not species appropriate. I hear pupaccinos mentioned a few times a week and cringe. Dogs and cats can also get very fat with these very fast, not to mention the health adversities that come along with that.
No yogurt or kiefer or treats that contain them
No yogurt or kiefer, these are dairy. There is so much on the internet saying to give dogs and cats yogurt, when it is actually very bad for them. While yogurt and kefir DO contain beneficial live bacteria for the gut microbiome, remember that they both are a dairy source. Dogs and cats do not have enzymes to digest dairy, other than their mother's milk as a puppy or kitten, nor do they typically tolerate dairy well. This greatly outweighs the potential benefits of the probiotics and could actually be contributing to allergies, yeast overgrowth, skin conditions, and ear infections. There are many better sources for probiotics, such as raw green tripe, soil based probiotics, and other probiotic powders and supplements. They are also found naturally in raw food.
No yogurt or kiefer, these are dairy. There is so much on the internet saying to give dogs and cats yogurt, when it is actually very bad for them. While yogurt and kefir DO contain beneficial live bacteria for the gut microbiome, remember that they both are a dairy source. Dogs and cats do not have enzymes to digest dairy, other than their mother's milk as a puppy or kitten, nor do they typically tolerate dairy well. This greatly outweighs the potential benefits of the probiotics and could actually be contributing to allergies, yeast overgrowth, skin conditions, and ear infections. There are many better sources for probiotics, such as raw green tripe, soil based probiotics, and other probiotic powders and supplements. They are also found naturally in raw food.
© Roaring For Raw, nothing in this membership area may be reproduced in any form.
© Roaring For Raw, nothing in this membership area may be reproduced in any form.